Unagi: the go-to dish for getting through Japan's hot summers

In Japan, the sweltering summer months are synonymous with eating unagi, or freshwater eel. It's believed that eating eel during the summer, particularly on the Day of the Ox, can help you endure the intense summer heat, making it a popular choice for locals and tourists alike. 
However, the benefits of eating unagi extend well beyond the summer season, so whenever you plan to visit Japan, unagi is a great choice anytime you need a boost of stamina. As for where you indulge in this local delicacy, you’ll absolutely want to visit Asakusa.

What sets Asakusa apart as the ultimate destination for eel enthusiasts? It’s said that its proximity to the Sumida River, known for its abundant eel population, made it the perfect location for eel-based dishes to flourish, and this historic neighborhood still draws crowds of foodies from far and wide today. 
 

Something for everyone at Asakusa Unatetsu

I recommend starting your unagi adventure at Asakusa Unatetsu's Kokusai-dori location. This homey restaurant offers an impressive twenty different types of eel dishes on the menu so there is something for everyone. But if you’re new to eel cuisine, I recommend the classic unajū—grilled eel served over freshly cooked rice. It comes in three different sizes and is served with a clear soup with eel liver and traditional Japanese pickles. 

Unatetsu prepares the eel used for unajū in the Kanto style. 
In this preparation, the eel is steamed before it’s grilled over charcoal as it’s basted with a savory-sweet sauce made from mirin (sweetened rice wine) and soy sauce. This results in super soft, melt-in-your-mouth eel. In contrast, eel prepared in the Kansai style is grilled without prior steaming, resulting in a firmer, more crispy eel. 

If you're looking for something new, consider ordering their hitsumabushi. Unlike unajū, hitsumabushi uses eel that’s not steamed before grilling, resulting in a crispy exterior and tender interior. Whether basted with sauce or finished with salt, this dish can be enjoyed as a rice bowl or transformed into ochazuke by pouring hot dashi broth over it. 

Whatever option you choose, Unatetsu recommends pairing your unagi with Urakasumi, a Japanese sake from Miyagi Prefecture, for people who would like to enjoy a drink with their meal.

Asakusa Unatetsu (Kokusai-dori)

Address: 1-43-7 Asakusa, Taito City, Tokyo
Hours: 11:30 am - 9:30 pm（last orders  8:30 pm）
Closed: irregular
Website: https://www.hitsumabushi.com/

Get unagi on the go at Asakusa Unana

Indulging in unagi may come with a hefty price tag, ranging from 4,000 to 5,000 yen per person depending on your choice of venue and dish. Considering that and Asakusa's plethora of culinary delights, opting for a casual snacking experience over a full sit-down meal might be more appealing to some. In that case, I recommend Asakusa Unana.

Aside from offering traditional eel dishes like unajū during the week, Asakusa Unana serves unagi yaki onigiri—grilled rice balls topped with eel. These substantial rice balls are basted with an eel broth-based sauce and topped with a generous portion of savory, perfectly grilled eel. Served straight off the grill, these little treats are absolutely delicious and at only 600 yen per onigiri, they’re a great value. 

Committed to quality, Unana meticulously sources its ingredients, including domestically procured eel and sansho—Japanese pepper—from Wakayama Prefecture. The staff will ask you whether or not you’d like sansho on your onigiri. I personally love sansho and find that it pairs wonderfully with unagi, but be careful: it can cause a tingling sensation on the lips and tongue. While these onigiri are wrapped up in paper and ideal for on-the-go snacking, you can enjoy them at Unana’s eat-in space just a few doors down. 

Asakusa Unana

Address: 2-7-21 Asakusa, Taito City, Tokyo
Hours:
Mon.-Fri. 9:30 am - 5:30 pm
Sat.-Sun. 9:30 am - 6:15 pm
Closed: irregular
Website: https://unana.jp/
 

writer

Rachael Aoki
Originally from the East Coast of the United States, Rachael has called Japan home for over a decade. She enjoys discovering destinations that are popular with locals from quaint cafes to hole-in-the-wall eateries and sharing that information with visitors from overseas. She also loves taking trips to onsen and is always up for a trip to Hakone, Kanagawa.