Not only is Tokyo one of the largest cities in the world, it’s a city undergoing constant change. Buildings are built and torn down, neighborhoods are redeveloped and new cityscapes are born in the Japanese capital, almost in the blink of an eye. It’s not surprising, then, that some parts of Tokyo that are the slowest to change enjoy an enduring popularity. This is true of Tokyo’s yokocho, a term that means side street or back alley. These lanes tucked away near railway hubs are fascinating gateways to the past as well as culinary and shopping adventures. This article covers three of the best yokocho in Tokyo.

Getting lost in Shinjuku Nishiguchi Omoide Yokocho, Shinjuku's 'Memory Lane'

With over 3 million people using it every day, Shinjuku Station is the world’s busiest rail hub, with its satellite stations hosting over 50 platforms. This hive is currently undergoing a major redevelopment for the future, but in nearby Omoide Yokocho (Memory Lane), time stands still. Located on the northwest side of the complex, Omoide Yokocho consists of three lanes of about 80 shops, mostly yakitori and motsuyaki (grilled animal organs) as well as noodle shops and bars.

Beloved by Tokyoites, this nostalgic collection of ramshackle buildings dates from a black market that sprung up here in the aftermath of World War II. Even 80 years later, you still feel like you’re in the Showa era (1926–1989).

“We get customers from all over the world who are drawn to the unique retro vibe,” says Katsuro Miyauchi, manager of Albatross, a two-story, hole in the wall bar that stands out with its disco balls, chandeliers, statues, mounted deer heads and other eclectic décor. Miyauchi’s signature cocktail is the Shinjuku Bomber, a refreshing long glass of vodka, cassis, lychee, grapefruit and tonic. At Albatross, you’ll soon be making your own memories and forgetting all about the outside world.

Albatross

Address: 1-2-11 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo
Hours: 5pm - 2am (until 5am on Fridays and Saturdays) (never closed)

Shinjuku Nishiguchi Omoide Yokocho

Address: 1-2 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo
URL:https://en.shinjuku-omoide.com/
Most bars in Omoide Yokocho are open from 5pm until 12am.

Mixing old and new in Nonbei Yokocho, Shibuya's 'Drunkard's Alley'

On the north side of the frenetic hub of Shibuya Station, you’ll find another trackside postwar yokocho with a similar atmosphere. Nonbei Yokocho, or Drunkard’s Alley, is sandwiched between the station, which is also undergoing a massive facelift, and Miyashita Park, redeveloped in 2020 as a multi-purpose facility featuring a shopping mall, a hotel and a park.

Like its counterpart in Shinjuku, Nonbei Yokocho originated in a postwar black market, but its roughly 40 shops cater more to drinkers than diners. Crammed into narrow two-story buildings are tiny izakaya-style pubs, shot bars, wine bars, yakitori grills, sashimi eateries and even a French bistro. With its traditional lanterns and awnings, Nonbei Yokocho feels like stepping into the mid-20th century.

“Nonbei Yokocho has unique architecture in Tokyo—these buildings are about 75 years old and some of the managers are third-generation,” says Yosuke Kimura, manager of Tight, a stylishly modern upstairs bar that serves drinks like Togouchi whisky highball and gin and tonic with cucumber, rosemary and white pepper. “We have a lot of foreign customers who appreciate the concept of being ‘tight,’ that is, meeting and chatting with new people.”

Tight

Address: 1-25-10 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo
Hours: 7pm - 2am (closed on Sundays)

Nonbei Yokocho

Address: 1-25 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo
URL: http://www.nonbei.tokyo/#
Bars in Nonbei Yokocho are generally open from 6pm or 7pm until late.

All you can eat in Ameyoko Shopping Street, Ueno's 'Candy Lane'

After a night of energetic drinking, you might have a hankering for unique street food. Located next to and under a 500-meter stretch of train tracks between Ueno and Okachimachi stations, Ameyoko Shopping Street grew out of a postwar black market into a thriving group of more than 400 shops known for both culinary delights and retail offerings. The origin of Ameyoko Shopping Street, or Ameyoko for short, is uncertain: it could refer to its candy shops (ameya) or surplus goods from America once sold here.

Tokyoites come to Ameyoko for bargains, daily necessities and to patronize shops specializing in everything from green tea, seafood and nuts to high-quality denim from Japan’s Okayama Prefecture, jewelry and electronics. Vendors here are known for their traditional style of shouting to attract customers, and some practice tatakiuri, striking boxes and other objects with sticks to get attention.

There’s also a surprisingly international variety of treats among the shops on Ameyoko-dori Street. You can find Turkish kebabs, Chinese dumplings and Japanese takoyaki fried octopus, along with stalls selling cut fruit, onigiri rice balls and whole chicken. In the basement of the nearby Ameyoko Center Building, there’s an Asian market selling products that are rare in Japan: pig heads and pig snouts, chicken feet, cow lungs and turtles. On top of that, the market has many other Asian foodstuffs including seasonings, sauces and spices. It’s all part of the authenticity of Tokyo’s colorful yokocho alleys.

Ameyoko Shopping Street

Address: 6-10 Ueno, Taito-ku, Tokyo
URL (Japanese language only): https://www.ameyoko.net/
Most shops in Ameyoko are open from 10am to 8pm, and many are closed on Wednesday.

Writer

Tim Hornyak has lived in Japan for more than 20 years, writing about travel, architecture, technology and business for domestic and international media.