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Not only is Tokyo one of the largest cities in the world, it's a city undergoing constant change. Buildings are built and torn down, neighborhoods are redeveloped, and new cityscapes are born, almost in the blink of an eye. It's not surprising, then, that some parts of Tokyo that are slowest to change enjoy an enduring popularity. This is particularly true of Japan’s yokocho—traditional drinking alleys tucked away throughout the city that serve as gateways to the past. Whether you're seeking culinary adventures, cultural immersion, or simply a memorable night out, Tokyo's yokocho alleys offer a perfect blend of nostalgia and excitement that feels distinctly Japanese.

What are Yokocho Alleys in Japan?

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A yokocho is a narrow alleyway or side street typically lined with tiny restaurants, bars, and izakayas (Japanese-style pubs) that draws visitors with its vibrant atmosphere and retro charm.

Yokocho alleys are said to have first emerged during Japan's post-war reconstruction period, beginning as informal marketplaces where communities gathered to rebuild both their neighborhoods and social connections. Many classic yokocho alleys are situated under elevated railway tracks, tucked into narrow alleyways between buildings, or housed within the remains of old buildings.

Yokochos are also often characterized with rows of red lanterns and neon signs, and these iconic symbols today create a nostalgic Showa-era atmosphere that feels like stepping back in time. What makes these alleyways truly special, however, isn't just their vintage exterior—it's the incredible intimacy they foster.

At the heart of yokocho culture lies the traditional culinary experience. Cozy establishments serve everything from perfectly grilled yakitori (grilled chicken skewers) to an impressive selection of sake and beer, all designed for sharing and socializing. The close quarters also naturally encourage hashigo-zake—the art of bar hopping from one tiny venue to the next, sampling different atmospheres and flavors throughout the evening.

3 of the Best Traditional Yokocho Alleys in Tokyo

While most eateries open in the evening and come alive during nighttime hours—with Shinjuku Nishiguchi Omoide Yokocho in Shinjuku and Nonbei Yokocho in Shibuya leading the charge, visitors can also discover vibrant street markets like Ameya Yokocho in Ueno, where stores open early in the morning selling everything from fresh seafood and produce to souvenirs and specialty goods.

Getting Lost in Shinjuku's Shinjuku Nishiguchi Omoide Yokocho (Memory Lane)

With over 3 million people using it every day, Shinjuku Station is the world’s busiest rail hub, with its satellite stations hosting over 50 platforms. This hive is currently undergoing a major redevelopment for the future, but in nearby Shinjuku Nishiguchi Omoide Yokocho (Memory Lane), time stands still. Located on the northwest side of the complex, Shinjuku Nishiguchi Omoide Yokocho consists of three lanes of about 80 shops, mostly yakitori and motsuyaki (grilled animal organs) as well as noodle shops and bars.

Beloved by Tokyoites, this nostalgic collection of ramshackle buildings dates from a black market that sprung up here in the aftermath of World War II. Even 80 years later, you still feel like you’re in the Showa era (1926–1989).

“We get customers from all over the world who are drawn to the unique retro vibe,” says Katsuro Miyauchi, manager of Albatross, a two-story, hole in the wall bar that stands out with its disco balls, chandeliers, statues, mounted deer heads and other eclectic décor. Miyauchi’s signature cocktail is the Shinjuku Bomber, a refreshing long glass of vodka, cassis, lychee, grapefruit and tonic. At Albatross, you’ll soon be making your own memories and forgetting all about the outside world.

Albatross
Address: 1-2-11 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo
Hours: 5pm - 2am (until 5am on Fridays and Saturdays) (never closed)

Shinjuku Nishiguchi Omoide Yokocho
Address: 1-2 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo
Access: about 2-minute walk from Shinjuku Station
Website: https://en.shinjuku-omoide.com/
Bars in Shinjuku Nishiguchi Omoide Yokocho are generally open from 5pm until 12am.

Mixing Old and New in Shibuya's Nonbei Yokocho (Drinkers' Alley)

On the north side of the frenetic hub of Shibuya Station, you’ll find another trackside postwar yokocho with a similar atmosphere. Nonbei Yokocho, or Drinkers’ Alley, is sandwiched between the station, which is also undergoing a massive facelift, and RAYARD MIYASHITA PARK, redeveloped in 2020 as a multi-purpose facility featuring a shopping mall, a hotel and a park.

Like its counterpart in Shinjuku, Nonbei Yokocho originated in a postwar black market, but its roughly 40 shops cater more to drinkers than diners. Crammed into narrow two-story buildings are tiny izakaya-style pubs, shot bars, wine bars, yakitori grills, sashimi eateries and even a French bistro. With its traditional lanterns and awnings, Nonbei Yokocho feels like stepping into the mid-20th century.

“Nonbei Yokocho has unique architecture in Tokyo—these buildings are about 75 years old and some of the managers are third-generation,” says Yosuke Kimura, manager of Tight, a stylishly modern upstairs bar that serves drinks like Togouchi whisky highball and gin and tonic with cucumber, rosemary and white pepper. “We have a lot of foreign customers who appreciate the concept of being ‘tight,’ that is, meeting and chatting with new people.”

Tight
Address: 1-25-10 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo
Hours: 7pm - 2am (closed on Sundays)

Nonbei Yokocho
Address: 1-25 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo
Access: about 1-minute walk from Shibuya Station
Website: http://www.nonbei.tokyo/
Bars in Nonbei Yokocho are generally open from 6pm or 7pm until late.

All You Can Eat in Ueno's ‘Ameyoko’ Ayema-Yokocho Shopping Street

After a night of energetic drinking, you might have a hankering for unique street food. Located next to and under a 500-meter stretch of train tracks between Ueno and Okachimachi stations, Ameya-Yokocho Shopping Street (often shortened to Ameyoko) grew out of a postwar black market into a thriving group of more than 400 shops known for both culinary delights and retail offerings. The origin of Ameyoko is uncertain: it could refer to its candy shops (ameya) or surplus goods from America once sold here.

Tokyoites come to Ameyoko for bargains, daily necessities and to patronize shops specializing in everything from green tea, seafood and nuts to high-quality denim from Japan’s Okayama Prefecture, jewelry and electronics. Vendors here are known for their traditional style of shouting to attract customers, and some practice tatakiuri, striking boxes and other objects with sticks to get attention.

There’s also a surprisingly international variety of treats among the shops on Ameyoko-dori Street. You can find Turkish kebabs, Chinese dumplings and Japanese takoyaki fried octopus, along with stalls selling cut fruit, onigiri rice balls and whole chicken. In the basement of the nearby Ameyoko Center Building, there’s an Asian market selling products that are rare in Japan: pig heads and pig snouts, chicken feet, cow lungs and turtles. On top of that, the market has many other Asian foodstuffs including seasonings, sauces and spices. It’s all part of the authenticity of Tokyo’s colorful yokocho alleys.

Ameya-Yokocho (Ameyoko) Shopping Street
Address: 6-10 Ueno, Taito-ku, Tokyo
Access: about 1-minutes walk from Ueno or Okachimachi Station
Website: https://www.ameyoko.net/
Most shops in Ameyoko are open from 10am to 8pm, and many are closed on Wednesdays.

Neo Yokocho: A Modern Twist on Japan's Traditional Yokocho Alleys

While traditional yokocho alleys offer nostalgic charm with their Showa retro atmosphere, a new phenomenon called "Neo Yokocho" has emerged in Japan in recent years. These contemporary twists typically occupy indoor spaces within newly developed complexes or shopping malls, featuring stylish, clean interiors that are perfectly designed for social media sharing. Among them, Asakusa Yokocho and Shibuya Yokocho are two representative destinations that bring together curated themes with diverse culinary offerings, ranging from regional Japanese specialties to creative fusion dishes.

Shibuya Yokocho: Where Japan’s Regional Cuisines Come Together

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Located on the ground floor of RAYARD MIYASHITA PARK in Shibuya, Shibuya Yokocho brings the energetic spirit of traditional drinking alleys into a sleek, modern setting. This 100-meter indoor facility features 19 distinct stalls and restaurants representing regional specialties from Hokkaido in the north to Okinawa in the south, allowing visitors to embark on a culinary journey across Japan without leaving central Tokyo.

Standout experiences include lively kushikatsu (deep-fried skewers of meat), regional ramen, and local rice bowls, all served within a festively decorated space. The yokocho's unique layout encourages bar-hopping from stall to stall, while the retro-chic atmosphere and regular themed events blend nostalgic ambiance with youthful Shibuya energy. With a total of 1,500 seats including 300 on an outdoor terrace, Shibuya Yokocho has established itself as a popular new hangout spot in the center of the city.

Shibuya Yokocho
Address: RAYARD MIYASHITA PARK South 1F, 6-20-10 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo
Access: about 3-minute walk from Shibuya Station
Website: https://shibuya-yokocho.com/?lang=en
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/shibuya_yokocho/

Asakusa Yokocho: When Traditional Drinking Culture Meets Japanese Festivals

Tucked away on the fourth floor of a shopping complex in Asakusa, Asakusa Yokocho brings a festive touch to Japan's drinking culture. Unlike typical narrow yokocho alleys, this indoor food hall creates a lively neighborhood atmosphere with seven diverse restaurants spread across a well-lit setting. Standout experiences include Asakusa Sushi's magical tuna presentation and fortune-telling chopsticks, plus Rocky Kanai Asakusa where visitors can cook their own dashimaki tamago (Japanese rolled omelet) at the table. With kimono rental services conveniently located on the same floor, visitors can easily immerse themselves in a complete traditional Japanese cultural experience.
🔗 From Sushi to Kimono: Explore Japan’s Festive Culture at Asakusa Yokocho

Asakusa Yokocho
Address: 4F Tokyo Rakutenchi Asakusa Building, 2-6-7 Asakusa, Taito-ku, Tokyo
Access: about 6-minute walk from Toei Subway Asakusa Station
Website: https://asakusayokocho.com/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/asakusa_yokocho/

How to Get to Tokyo’s Best Yokocho Alleys from HOTEL TAVINOS Hamamatsucho

Getting to Tokyo's yokocho districts from HOTEL TAVINOS Hamamatsucho is straightforward thanks to the hotel's convenient location. Each destination offers easy access from Hamamatsucho via the JR Lines, making it simple to explore multiple areas during your stay.
•To Shinjuku: Board the JR Yamanote Line directly from Hamamatsucho Station toward Shinjuku. The ride takes about 25 minutes.
•To Shibuya: Board the JR Yamanote Line from Hamamatsucho Station toward Shibuya. The ride takes about 20 minutes.
•To Ueno: Board the JR Yamanote Line or Keihin Tohoku Line from Hamamatsucho Station toward Ueno. The ride takes about 11 minutes.
•To Asakusa: Board the JR Yamanote Line or Keihin Tohoku Line from Hamamatsucho to Kanda Station (6 minutes), then transfer to the Tokyo Metro Ginza Line toward Asakusa (11 minutes).

Writer

Tim Hornyak has lived in Japan for more than 20 years, writing about travel, architecture, technology and business for domestic and international media.