Kyoto is a city where history and modernity coexist beautifully, and nowhere is this more evident than in Pontocho Alley. This atmospheric district, tucked between the Kamogawa River and a row of traditional machiya townhouses, is one of Kyoto’s most iconic geisha districts. Whether you’re looking for an unforgettable riverside dining experience during summertime, hoping to catch a glimpse of elegantly dressed maiko (apprentice geisha), or simply wanting to soak in the ambiance of Kyoto by night, Pontocho is the perfect place to start.

What Kind of Place is Pontocho Alley?

On the west bank of Kyoto’s Kamogawa River lies a sophisticated neighborhood stretching between the major streets of Sanjo-dori and Shijo-dori. This is Pontocho, an area of upscale restaurants, teahouses, and tiny walkways. It is also one of Kyoto’s five geisha districts and has been an entertainment district since the Edo Period (1603–1868). Here you will occasionally catch a glimpse of the kimono-clad girls as they hurry to their next appointment or traditional arts training. 

The main street, Pontocho Alley (Pontocho-dori), is approximately 500 meters long and at most points is barely wide enough for a couple to walk arm-in-arm. Enjoy its distinctly mysterious air, enhanced by the old wooden buildings and latticed windows which provide just enough privacy for its revelers. 

While you’re taking in Pontocho’s historic charm, it’s fun to explore the hidden alleyways or dine in the restaurants and bars that serve everything from aged whisky to chicken skewers (yakiniku) to sushi and udon. Many of the establishments overlook Kamogawa River, a favorite place for couples to picnic. After an evening in the upscale restaurants and bars of Pontocho, take a stroll along the river for the perfect romantic night out.

Kamogawa Riverside Dining in Pontocho: Kawayuka Restaurants Guide

There’s nothing quite like al fresco dining on a riverside terrace, known as kawayuka (kawadoko), on the banks of the Kamogawa River. Take in the beautiful natural scenery of the flowing river and waterfowl as you wine and dine in some of the city’s finest restaurants. Summers in Kyoto are known for being hot and humid, so the dining terraces provide the perfect setting for a refreshing summer meal. Allow the sounds and breeze from the river to cool you off on a hot summer evening. Many restaurants in Pontocho offer special kawayuka riverside terrace dining during the summer months, from May through September.

Below are two restaurants in Pontocho that you might want to try— Robin and Sofudo Ushi no Hone.

💡Notes about dining in Pontocho:
• While tipping is not customary in Japan, upscale restaurants often serve each customer an appetizer of the chef’s choosing, called tsukidashi. A nominal fee, ranging usually from ¥300 to ¥600, will be added to your bill.
• Seat charges may apply. The seat charges for the above kawayuka terraces are ¥550/person for lunch and ¥1,100/person for dinner (Robin), and ¥500/person (Ushi no Hone) respectively.

Pontocho Robin

Robin courses feature fresh seasonal ingredients, seafood, and Japanese beef, starting at ¥8,800. They are able to cater to vegetarian, vegan, halal, and gluten-free diets if reservations are made at least two days in advance.

Address: 137-4 Wakamatsu-cho, Pontocho-dori, Nakagyo-ku, Kyoto-shi, Kyoto
Hours:
(Lunch) available only on weekends and public holidays from May to September
(Dinner) 5:00 pm - 9:45 pm *starts from 4:30 pm during peak seasons
Closed: Irregular holidays
Access: 5-minute walk from Sanjo Station on the Keihan Main Line
Website: https://www.robin-kyoto.com/en/
Online reservation: https://www.tablecheck.com/en/shops/robin-kyoto/reserve

Sofudo Ushi no Hone

Sofudo Ushi no Hone serves Kyoto's unique vegetables (kyoyasai) and wagyu and fresh fish that pair with them. Course options range from ¥5,500, ¥7,700 to ¥12,000, and vegetarian options are available. Reservations may be made online or by phone.

Address: 136 Hashishita-cho, Nakagyo-ku, Kyoto-shi, Kyoto
Hours: 5:00 pm - 12:00 pm
Closed: Opens everyday
Access: 5-minute walk from Sanjo Station on the Keihan Main Line
Website: https://www.soufuudo-ushinohone.com/english/english.html
Online reservation: https://www.tablecheck.com/en/soufuudo-ushinohone/reserve/message

What are Pontocho Kaburenjo & Kamogawa Odori?

Pontocho is host to Kamogawa Odori , a traditional stage performance featuring music, theater, and dance by the geisha and maiko (young geisha in training) of Pontocho. It is the last of a series of annual spring performances that are held in Kyoto’s five geisha districts.

Kamogawa Odori has a long history, beginning in 1872. Performances are held in Pontocho Kaburenjo, a hall located on the north end of Pontocho-dori. The building was constructed in 1927. Its beautiful facade blends elements of western and eastern architecture and is visible from Kamogawa River. Daily rehearsals begin in mid-March, so you may have a chance to hear the music as you walk by the theater. 

Kamogawa Odori performances are held from 1st May to 24th May each year and tickets can be booked online, by phone or through travel agencies. Choose between a special seating ticket with or without tea. Details can be found on the official website.

How to Get to Pontocho from HOTEL TAVINOS Kyoto

Getting to Pontocho from HOTEL TAVINOS Kyoto is incredibly easy and convenient. The historic district is a mere 15-minute walk from the hotel, making it an ideal base for exploring Kyoto’s vibrant cultural and traditional dining scene. Guests can enjoy a scenic stroll along the Kamogawa River on their way to Pontocho, adding an extra layer of charm to the experience.

Writer

Maisie McPherson
Originally from the United States, Maisie has called the Kansai region of Japan home for nearly two decades. She enjoys seeking out the charms of life in Japan and sharing that information with visitors from overseas. She also loves marveling at retro architecture and design from the Showa period, exploring Japanese gardens, and is always up for a night out in a lively izakaya.