What kind of place is Pontocho?

On the west bank of Kyoto’s Kamo River lies a sophisticated neighborhood stretching between the major streets of Sanjo-dori and Shijo-dori. This is Pontocho, an area of upscale restaurants, teahouses, and tiny walkways. It is also one of Kyoto’s five geisha districts and has been an entertainment district since the Edo Period (1603–1868). Here you will occasionally catch a glimpse of the kimono-clad girls as they hurry to their next appointment or traditional arts training. 

The main street, Pontocho-dori, is approximately 500 meters long and at most points is barely wide enough for a couple to walk arm-in-arm. Enjoy its distinctly mysterious air, enhanced by the old wooden buildings and latticed windows which provide just enough privacy for its revelers. 

While you’re taking in Pontocho’s historic charm, it’s fun to explore the hidden alleyways or dine in the restaurants and bars that serve everything from aged whisky to yakiniku to sushi and udon. Many of the establishments overlook Kamo River, a favorite place for couples to picnic. After an evening in the upscale restaurants and bars of Pontocho, take a stroll along the river for the perfect romantic night out.

Pontocho summers are best spent in restaurant terraces along the Kamo River

There’s nothing quite like al fresco dining on a riverside terrace, known as kawayuka, on the banks of the Kamo River. Take in the beautiful natural scenery of the flowing river and waterfowl as you wine and dine in some of the city’s finest restaurants. Summers in Kyoto are known for being hot and humid, so the dining terraces provide the perfect setting for a refreshing summer meal. Allow the sounds and breeze from the river to cool you off on a hot summer evening. Many restaurants in Pontocho offer special kawayuka dining during the summer months, from May through September.

Below are two restaurants in Pontocho that you might want to try— Robin and Sofudo Ushi no Hone,

Robin courses feature fresh seasonal ingredients, seafood, and Japanese beef, starting at ¥7,700. They are able to cater to vegetarian, vegan, halal, and gluten-free diets if reservations are made at least two days in advance.

Sofudo Ushi no Hone serves Kyoto's unique vegetables (kyoyasai) and wagyu and fresh fish that pair with them. Courses range between ¥7,500–12,000 and vegetarian options are available. Reservations may be made online or by phone.

Sofudo Ushi no Hone 

What is Pontocho’s Kamogawa Odori?

Pontocho is host to Kamogawa Odori, a traditional stage performance featuring music, theater, and dance by the geisha and maiko (young geisha in training) of Pontocho. It is the last of a series of annual spring performances that are held in Kyoto’s five geisha districts.

Kamogawa Odori has a long history, beginning in 1872. Performances are held in Pontocho Kaburenjo, a hall located on the north end of Pontocho-dori. The building was constructed in 1927. Its beautiful facade blends elements of western and eastern architecture and is visible from Kamo River. Daily rehearsals begin in mid-March, so you may have a chance to hear the music as you walk by the theater. 

Kamogawa Odori performances are held May 1-24 and tickets can be booked online or by phone. Choose between a special seating ticket with or without tea. Details can be found on the official website (https://en.kamogawa-odori.com).
 

writer

Maisie McPherson
Originally from the United States, Maisie has called the Kansai region of Japan home for nearly two decades. She enjoys seeking out the charms of life in Japan and sharing that information with visitors from overseas. She also loves marveling at retro architecture and design from the Showa period, exploring Japanese gardens, and is always up for a night out in a lively izakaya.