What’s the first drink that comes to mind when you think of Japan? You’re probably not alone if you thought of matcha or green tea, but Japan also has a robust coffee culture that emerged in the early 20th century with the establishment of coffee houses called kissaten. Kissaten often have a nostalgic, retro atmosphere with wooden furniture, subdued lighting, and vintage decor reminiscent of the Showa era (1926–1989). Ginza is a great place to find kissaten, some of which have been in business for over a hundred years! Here are just a few that you might want to check out during your trip to Tokyo. 

Shiseido Parlour: Enjoy Japan’s Original Ice Cream Soda

You may know Shiseido for its high-end skincare and cosmetics, but did you know that Shiseido also established Japan’s first soda fountain? Shiseido was founded by Arinobu Fukuhara in 1872 as Japan’s first private Western-style pharmacy. As he was returning home from the Paris Exposition via the United States, he was inspired by the soda fountains he saw in American drug stores and installed one in his own pharmacy in 1902. The soda water and ice cream sodas they made were a big hit, and the soda fountain eventually grew into Shiseido Parlour. The place of foundation is now home to the Tokyo Ginza Shiseido Building, and you can still enjoy an ice cream soda (soda float) in the cafe on the third floor to this day! 

I visited Shiseido Parlour as it welcomed its 122nd year in business and enjoyed an ice cream soda. They offer lemon and orange flavors year-round, plus a monthly special. It was a hot summer day, so I chose lemon, and it did not disappoint. The vibrant yellow soda was just the right balance of sweet and tart, and the vanilla ice cream, which had flecks of real vanilla bean, was rich and creamy. Although not a complicated drink, Shiseido’s dedication to quality makes it an experience. I was surprised to learn that the cafe makes its own syrup and all of its ice cream right there in the kitchen! While an ice cream soda is a great afternoon pick-me-up on a hot day, I recommend indulging in one of their decadent parfaits if you’re hungry. 

Shiseido Parlour Salon De Café

Address: Tokyo Ginza Shiseido Building 3F, 8-8-3, Ginza, Chuo City, Tokyo
Hours: Tue.-Sat. 11:00 am–9:00 pm. Sun.＆National holidays. 11:00 am–8:00 pm

Closed: Mon.（open on National Holidays) / New Year break (end-December to early January)
Website: https://parlour.shiseido.co.jp/en/
 

Cafe Paulista: Experience Retro Coffee Blends at One of Japan’s Oldest Kissaten 

Cafe Paulista, established in Ginza in 1911, is one of Japan's oldest and most iconic coffee shops. Founded by the entrepreneur Ryo Mizuno with support from the Brazilian government, it aimed to promote Brazilian coffee in Japan. The cafe quickly became a cultural hub, attracting intellectuals, artists, and writers who gathered to discuss ideas and enjoy its high-quality coffee. In 1923, Cafe Paulista was destroyed in the Great Kanto Earthquake but was rebuilt and relocated to its current location. Over the decades, it has maintained its reputation for excellent coffee and refined atmosphere, contributing significantly to the development of Japan's coffee culture and preserving its historical charm amidst the modernity of Ginza.

Kissaten were significant in popularizing dark roast coffee, serving high-quality, freshly roasted beans, often with a strong and intense flavor that matched the dark roast profile. If you want to experience this authentic kissaten flavor, go with the Paulista Old blend, which has been sold since the cafe’s founding. 

When the coffee arrived at my table, I immediately noted its rich, dark color. It had a deep, almost smokey flavor with notes of bitter chocolate and a sharp, refreshing finish. Fans of espresso roast coffees will definitely enjoy Paulista Old. I prefer to drink my coffee black, and I thought it paired beautifully with the delicious sachertorte I ordered. This traditional German torte made with chocolate cake, ganache, and raspberry filling has been a long-time favorite of this cafe's patrons, and I can absolutely understand why. It was delicious. 

I recommend trying the Mori no Coffee if you’re not a fan of very dark roasts. I found this coffee lighter and sweeter than Paulista Old, with a bright and refreshing acidity. This coffee gets its name—literally, “coffee of the forest”—from the fact that it’s allowed to grow freely without pruning and without chemical pesticides or fertilizers.

Cafe Paulista 

Address: Nagasaki Center Building 1F/2F, 8-9, Ginza, Chuo City, Tokyo
Hours: (1F) Mon.-Fri.9:00 am–8:00 pm, Sat.9:00 am–7:30 pm, Sun.11:30 am–7:00 pm, (2F) Mon.-Sat.12:00 nn–6:30 pm, Sun.12:00 nn–7:00 pm     
Closed: New year holiday season
Website: https://www.paulista.co.jp/

Tricolore: Travel Through Time at This  Kissaten Coffee Shop

Last but not least in our Ginza kissaten journey is Tricolore. Compared to the sleek, modern buildings that have become ubiquitous in Ginza in recent years, Tricolore stands out with its brick facade, cheerful red awnings, and green ivy cascading down from window boxes on the second story. Unfortunately, this is not the original building where the cafe opened in 1936. Like so many other buildings, it was rebuilt after the original location was destroyed in the fires of World War II. The building underwent additional renovations in 1982, during which some current features, such as the revolving door and chandelier, were installed.
Stepping inside Tricolore, with its rich, warm colors, brickwork, and wooden accents, is like stepping into a scene from a Studio Ghibli movie. It’s the perfect place to unplug from the busyness outside and take a moment to really enjoy a cup of coffee.

The coffee at Tricolore is brewed using the pour-over method and a flannel cloth filter. The flannel filter allows for a slower extraction process, which results in a rich and smooth finish. In addition to the coffee, I strongly recommend that you try their outstanding apple pie. They prepare their apples in the kitchen, peeling them and then leaving them to simmer in their own juices with a Japanese sugar called sanonto, nutmeg, and cinnamon. As an American, I’ve tried quite a few apple pies in my life, and this one certainly ranks among the top for me. Their custard cream eclairs are also a great option if you’re looking for a lighter dessert with your coffee.

Visiting these retro kissaten is an excellent opportunity to return to a slower time and really savor a cup of coffee. I invite you to stop by and unwind at any of these cafes to refresh and recharge during your trip to Japan. 

Tricolore 

Address: 5-9-17, Ginza, Chuo City, Tokyo
Hours: 8:00 am–7:00 pm
Closed: Tuesday
Website: http://www.tricolore.co.jp/ginza_trico/index.html

writer

Rachael Aoki
Originally from the East Coast of the United States, Rachael has called Japan home for over a decade. She enjoys discovering destinations that are popular with locals from quaint cafes to hole-in-the-wall eateries and sharing that information with visitors from overseas. She also loves taking trips to onsen and is always up for a trip to Hakone, Kanagawa.